Soundproofing A Home Theater
The world rushed nowadays, most people do not have time or money to waste to take the whole family to the movies (up to $ 50 to $ 60 per shot), why not build a home theater in your living room garage, basement or outside? The construction and soundproofing a home theater is almost like building a soundproof music studio at home.
The only major difference is that with a home theater, we are not concerned with the incoming sound in the theater would if you were recording or voice-over. The most effective method for the construction of your home theater is actually building a room within a room. Basically, this means framing the new walls of the existing room. It is much easier than it looks. If you have skills and tools are better with them as "Tim Taylor" on "Tool Time", then chances are you are qualified to undertake this project. Want the new walls within the existing room, this is pretty easy in a position of the basement, where two walls are more likely to concrete block or poured concrete clay and are generally supportive. There is no need for soundproofing.
Framing a room within a room, you take all the negatives in the room, trying to work against the insulation, and now their friendly form of "dead air space". Dead air space (if it is closed) is a soundproofer good in itself, but needs a little 'power insulation if you are going to watch Star Wars or Matrix (cranked up) into a new home theater. Once the new walls are framed out, it's time to soundproof. We found that as a good insulation batt or Safe Roxul Roxul AFB that are very effective when placed in the stud or joist cavities. If you can not find Roxul products, the use of good quality rock wool and mineral wool fill with fat. The next step would be to respect the American Mass loaded vinyl layer structure directly to the pin. Connecting the MLV directly to the posts or beams allows vinyl to resonate or move votes.
If MLV is able to resonate, it will ensure that the full potential and give you the power necessary to sound a theater of sound insulation. The VCP should be stapled (industrial air stapler drives) or nailed (using roofing nails with plastic heads, large) on the studs or joists. If you are able to cover the seams that would be better, but if this is not possible, you want to butt the seams tight and seal butt joints and the entire perimeter of the newly installed MLV. Want MLV membrane to act as a noise on your walls and ceilings. Seal seams and registration is essential to seal the MLV membrane. Caulked seams will also need to be sealed with a sealant tape quality MLV before installing the new drywall. I recommend installing two layers of ? "plaster on the walls and ceiling. Now, if it becomes too expensive as a single layer of 5 / 8" fire code drywall will suffice.
This should be part of a complete soundproofing your home theater. Finally, if you are installing two layers of plasterboard and the walls of your home theater, it is recommended to apply at least two pipes Green Glue damping layer consists of the second drywall. Just draw a second layer of drywall saw horses and apply the Green Glue pipe behind the drywall and then just screw the new layer of drywall in the existing drywall with Green Glue sandwiched between. Green Glue attenuates the two layers of drywall and home theater sound will also stop the parallel walls. Once this is complete, it is therefore necessary to treat the room acoustically appearance and acoustic properties of a real theater. We are going to discuss this, we first article.This is Dr. Bob .... Out
Pictures/SnapShot :
The only major difference is that with a home theater, we are not concerned with the incoming sound in the theater would if you were recording or voice-over. The most effective method for the construction of your home theater is actually building a room within a room. Basically, this means framing the new walls of the existing room. It is much easier than it looks. If you have skills and tools are better with them as "Tim Taylor" on "Tool Time", then chances are you are qualified to undertake this project. Want the new walls within the existing room, this is pretty easy in a position of the basement, where two walls are more likely to concrete block or poured concrete clay and are generally supportive. There is no need for soundproofing.
Framing a room within a room, you take all the negatives in the room, trying to work against the insulation, and now their friendly form of "dead air space". Dead air space (if it is closed) is a soundproofer good in itself, but needs a little 'power insulation if you are going to watch Star Wars or Matrix (cranked up) into a new home theater. Once the new walls are framed out, it's time to soundproof. We found that as a good insulation batt or Safe Roxul Roxul AFB that are very effective when placed in the stud or joist cavities. If you can not find Roxul products, the use of good quality rock wool and mineral wool fill with fat. The next step would be to respect the American Mass loaded vinyl layer structure directly to the pin. Connecting the MLV directly to the posts or beams allows vinyl to resonate or move votes.
If MLV is able to resonate, it will ensure that the full potential and give you the power necessary to sound a theater of sound insulation. The VCP should be stapled (industrial air stapler drives) or nailed (using roofing nails with plastic heads, large) on the studs or joists. If you are able to cover the seams that would be better, but if this is not possible, you want to butt the seams tight and seal butt joints and the entire perimeter of the newly installed MLV. Want MLV membrane to act as a noise on your walls and ceilings. Seal seams and registration is essential to seal the MLV membrane. Caulked seams will also need to be sealed with a sealant tape quality MLV before installing the new drywall. I recommend installing two layers of ? "plaster on the walls and ceiling. Now, if it becomes too expensive as a single layer of 5 / 8" fire code drywall will suffice.
This should be part of a complete soundproofing your home theater. Finally, if you are installing two layers of plasterboard and the walls of your home theater, it is recommended to apply at least two pipes Green Glue damping layer consists of the second drywall. Just draw a second layer of drywall saw horses and apply the Green Glue pipe behind the drywall and then just screw the new layer of drywall in the existing drywall with Green Glue sandwiched between. Green Glue attenuates the two layers of drywall and home theater sound will also stop the parallel walls. Once this is complete, it is therefore necessary to treat the room acoustically appearance and acoustic properties of a real theater. We are going to discuss this, we first article.This is Dr. Bob .... Out
Pictures/SnapShot :
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